Questions, answered
The things people ask before their first fitting, and the guides linked from the home page.
In the fitting room
Fittings, cloth and cut
What happens when you come in, and how the choices you make change the finished garment.
Fittings and measurements
How long does the first appointment take?
Allow about an hour. That covers what you want made, going through the cloth, taking a full set of measurements and talking through the details like lapel shape, pockets and lining.
How many fittings will I need?
Usually two after the first appointment: a basted fitting where the garment is loosely assembled so it can be marked and corrected, and a final fitting when it is finished. More complicated jobs sometimes need a third.
Do I need to bring anything?
Wear or bring the shoes you plan to wear with the garment, so the trouser length can be set properly. If you own a jacket that fits you well, bring it, because it is quicker to point at something than to describe it.
What if my size changes?
Most garments have enough cloth in the seams to be let out or taken in later. Bring it back and we will alter it.
Cloth, cut and style
What is the difference between a suit, a blazer and a sport coat?
A suit jacket has trousers cut from the same cloth and is usually the most structured of the three. A blazer is a standalone jacket, traditionally navy, a little softer in the shoulder. A sport coat is softer again and usually in a textured cloth like tweed or hopsack, meant to be worn with contrasting trousers.
How do I choose a cloth weight?
Lighter cloths wear cooler and crease more; heavier cloths hang better and hold a press. If a suit is going to be worn all year indoors, a mid-weight wool is the safe answer. Linen and cotton are summer cloths and will crease, which is part of the point.
Half canvas or full canvas?
A canvas is the internal layer that gives a jacket its shape. Half canvas runs through the chest and lapel; full canvas continues to the hem. Full canvas moulds to you over time and costs more to make. Both are a long way ahead of a fused jacket.
Can I copy a jacket I already own?
Yes. Bring it in. We can measure it, work out what you like about it and what you do not, and draft a pattern from there.
Occasions and afterwards
Weddings, timing and care
Dressing a group, planning around a date, and keeping a suit alive once you own it.
Weddings and groups
How far ahead should we order for a wedding?
Book the first appointment as early as you comfortably can. Making takes time and so do fittings, and a wedding party spread across several people needs everyone measured before anything is cut. Ask us for the current lead time when you get in touch.
Does the whole party have to match?
No, and it usually looks better if they do not match exactly. A shared cloth family, or a shared cut with different colours, holds a group together without making it a uniform.
What does the invitation actually mean?
Morning dress means a morning coat, waistcoat and formal trousers. Black tie means a dinner jacket and bow tie. Lounge suits means an ordinary suit. If the invitation says nothing, a plain three-piece is never wrong.
Can you fit a group in one visit?
Usually, if we know how many people are coming. Get in touch first so enough time is set aside.
Orders, timing and care
How long does an order take?
It depends on the garment and how many fittings it needs. We will give you a date at the first appointment and tell you straight away if anything is going to move.
How should I look after a suit?
Hang it on a broad hanger, let it rest a day between wearings, and brush it rather than dry-clean it. Dry cleaning strips the wool. Twice a year is plenty for most people.
Can you alter something not made by you?
Often, yes, depending on how it was made and how much cloth is in the seams. Bring it in and we will tell you honestly whether it is worth doing.
What if I am not happy with the finished garment?
Tell us. The fitting stages exist to catch problems before the garment is finished, and anything that can be corrected afterwards will be.
Still not sure?
Ask us directly. There is no obligation attached to a conversation about cloth.